If your Maytag electric dryer is running ok but is not heating. You will need to check the following parts until you find out the part that needs to be replace to fix the dryer.
Here I am going to give you a brief description of the parts you need to check, and below you will have the links to the pages with the videos that will show you how the repairs are done.
Taking apart: The first thing that you need to learn to be able to fix your Maytag electric, is how to take it apart and put it back together again properly.
When you know how to dismantle the dryer, every repair becomes easier do. The hardest thing to do when making a repair is dismantling and reassembling the dryer.
So my advice to you is, learn how to dismantle and put the dryer back together properly, before trying to do the repairs.
The power cord: The power cord is used to bring electricity from the wall outlet to the terminal block in the dryer. You will need to disconnect the dryer from the wall outlet and remove the terminal block cover to check the wires on the power cord for continuity. Visually check the connections on the terminal block to see if any of the cord terminals are burnt or broken.
Voltages at the terminal block: To check the voltage at the terminal block do the following. Disconnect the dryer from the wall outlet and remove the terminal block cover. Set your multimeter o a scale that could read more that 240 ac volts. Connect the dryer to the wall outlet and make sure you body doesn't touch any part of the dryer to avoid an electrical shock.
Take a reading between the terminal on the right and the terminal on the left on the terminal block. The reading should be close to 240 ac volts. If the reading is less than 180 volts, the problem could be a blown fuse, tripped circuit breaker or a bad wall outlet.
The heating element: To check the heating element you need to disconnect the dryer from the wall outlet. Open the top panel and remove the front panel to get access to the internal parts. Set the multimeter on a scale that could read about 200 ohms. Disconnect one wire from the element then take a reading between the 2 terminal on the element. There should be some resistance, if the reading is infinity, the element is bad and must be replaced.
The timer: The time is the distribution center in the dryer. It closes contacts to direct electricity to the electrical parts in the dryer according to the selection on the timer. For example, it sends 120 ac volts to the motor and 240 ac volts to the drying unit. Check the video below to see how to check & replace the timer.
Temperature selector switch: The timer sends electricity to this switch and according to the selection on the switch the switch sends electricity the thermostats and the drying unit. This switch doesn't go bad too often, but it need to be check when the dryer is not producing any heat.
Cycling thermostat: This thermostat is used to control the air temperature inside of the tumbler. It is wired in series with the element. If the thermostat fails the dryer can't produce heat.
Hi-limit thermostat: This thermostat is a safety device used to open the element circuit if the cycling thermostat fails to open at the preset temperature. It doesn't go bad that often, but it need to be check when the dryer is not drying the clothes.
The motor centrifugal switch: This switch is inside of the motor and completes the circuit to produce heat when the motor is running and opens the circuit when the motor is not running. If this switch goes bad it is better to replace the complete motor.
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